Oman Road Trip #2 Part Three

... The end is near ...

Leaving the Gulf of Oman, commencing our westward trip home, and heading towards the deserted town of Tanuf, the Mediterranean feel of the coast gives way to stark desert and the serrated edges of the Hajar mountain range. I had not imagined in the slightest "the desert" could have some many different climates / ecosystems; but I am pleasantly surprised.

Famous for its Tanuf-brand mineral water, the old town of Tanuf was abandoned in the 1960s, a casualty of the Jebel Wars of a decade earlier. Bombed by the British to quell a rebellion at the request of the then Sultan, the town was demolished forcing its inhabitants to abandon their home, and what's left today is a great example of a tradition Omani town.

A falaj (an ancient gravity irrigation system) runs through the town next to the mosque. A track leads 8km or so up to Wadi Qashah where there are pools in which you can swim. The entire area is spectacularly beautiful even if the ruins of the ghost town of Tanuf are more than just a bit sobering.

Back in the car we go and up the twisting road we turn until we reach the Al Hotta Cave, which is located at the foot of Jebel Shams, is one of the largest cave systems in the world and in the vicinity of the Tanuf Valley in Al Hamra district. It is more than 5km long cave traversed by underground River.

Supposedly the cave is enormous in size and scale and absolutely picturesque, but as they only offer tours every few hours, we miss our window; that is, if we want to make it to our final destination with any light left. So, we have pass. Note to self: another reason to return one day!

Before we begin our ascent up the Jebel Sham mountain peak, we first have one more stop: Al Hamra (Arabic: red) is a 400-year-old town in the region Ad Dakhiliyah, in northeastern Oman. It is home to the mountainside village of Misfat Al Abryeen. Al-Hamra is also known as Hamra Al-Abryeen with reference to the Al Abri tribe who live there. Some of the oldest preserved houses in Oman can be found in Al Hamra, a town built on a tilted rock slab; it also features terraced gardens and a piazza, it almost feels Italianate. Many of the houses have two stories, with ceilings made of palm beams and fronds topped by mud and straw. We grab some very sweet panoramic shots of the date palm oasis and once again ... repeat after me .... jump back in the car.

Okay, here we go .... Jebel Shams! Jebel Shams Arabic: Jebel Shams mountain of sun) is a mountain located in northeastern Oman north of Al Hamra town. It is the highest mountain of the country and part of Al Hajar Mountains range. It is a popular sightseeing area located 240 km from Muscat. In the summer, temperature is around 20 ° C and in the winter it drops just above 0 ° C. 3,075 meters (10,089 ft). From what we are told, Jebel Shams is the "Grand Canyon" of the Middle East. Yes, we are pumped.

Oh, and before I continue on ... btw, if you ever try and make it to the top of this mountain range ... one suggestion: do not attempt the climb in the aforementioned Mitsubishi Lancer. You will not make it. Our "car" had to be put in first gear to even achieve forward motion up the grade, and even then, I felt like giving it the ole "Fred Flintstone" and using my feet. Sad.

Thankfully, just as we were about to wave the white flag and turn around ... we run into a very friendly stranger who jumped out of his dusty truck to say hello. Before we knew it, he was showing us a map of where we were and where we wanted to go. He kept pointing at our car, and saying, "no make it." Yeah, tell us something we don't know.

Well, the next thing we know, this strange man we don't know named Mohammed is instantly transformed into MOHAMMED! our trusty guide and savior of the trip! We all enthusiastically hop into his 250,000 mile + Land Rover as the13 Omani real price we negotiated for our trip to the top sounds like a bargain.

Mohammed talks to us the whole way up ... up, down, left, right, back n'forth ... yes the road is a gravel and dirt rollercoaster ... and Mohammed is very pleased to tell us all about the history of this place. At least, I think that's what he was attempting. For the only two phrases any of us could make out were, "you understand?", And "no problem!"

So, yes, we understood; it was no problem.

I could literally go on and on about how outstanding this part of the trip was ... the drive up, getting out and walking to what felt like the edge of the world .... The views of the vast expanse of canyon for as far as one could see ... the cool wind whipping up off the bluff ... the instant smack of vertigo as you looked over the brink straight down. It was surreal.

While it is quite a cliché to say so, the pictures shown here (or the many more I have posted on Facebook) of course don't do any justice to the vistas, the feeling, and the overall experience. This probably sums it up best: like any worthwhile and incredible trip, as soon as you leave, you can't wait to go back.

But back we must go.


The ride back down is treacherous and exhilarating ... with some sketchy sections and precipitous grade changes. Before leaving we wander around for just a few more minutes - stealing time - watch Mohammed pray towards Mecca, and attempt to store this one deep in the memory banks. I even write a flattering yet sarcastic (is there any other method to my madness) testimonial in Mohammed's notebook / advertising pamphlet.


As we venture further west, the sun bleeds into the triangles of rock that just out of the road ahead. The journey has finished.