Oman Road Trip #2 Part Three

... The end is near ...

Leaving the Gulf of Oman, commencing our westward trip home, and heading towards the deserted town of Tanuf, the Mediterranean feel of the coast gives way to stark desert and the serrated edges of the Hajar mountain range. I had not imagined in the slightest "the desert" could have some many different climates / ecosystems; but I am pleasantly surprised.

Famous for its Tanuf-brand mineral water, the old town of Tanuf was abandoned in the 1960s, a casualty of the Jebel Wars of a decade earlier. Bombed by the British to quell a rebellion at the request of the then Sultan, the town was demolished forcing its inhabitants to abandon their home, and what's left today is a great example of a tradition Omani town.

A falaj (an ancient gravity irrigation system) runs through the town next to the mosque. A track leads 8km or so up to Wadi Qashah where there are pools in which you can swim. The entire area is spectacularly beautiful even if the ruins of the ghost town of Tanuf are more than just a bit sobering.

Back in the car we go and up the twisting road we turn until we reach the Al Hotta Cave, which is located at the foot of Jebel Shams, is one of the largest cave systems in the world and in the vicinity of the Tanuf Valley in Al Hamra district. It is more than 5km long cave traversed by underground River.

Supposedly the cave is enormous in size and scale and absolutely picturesque, but as they only offer tours every few hours, we miss our window; that is, if we want to make it to our final destination with any light left. So, we have pass. Note to self: another reason to return one day!

Before we begin our ascent up the Jebel Sham mountain peak, we first have one more stop: Al Hamra (Arabic: red) is a 400-year-old town in the region Ad Dakhiliyah, in northeastern Oman. It is home to the mountainside village of Misfat Al Abryeen. Al-Hamra is also known as Hamra Al-Abryeen with reference to the Al Abri tribe who live there. Some of the oldest preserved houses in Oman can be found in Al Hamra, a town built on a tilted rock slab; it also features terraced gardens and a piazza, it almost feels Italianate. Many of the houses have two stories, with ceilings made of palm beams and fronds topped by mud and straw. We grab some very sweet panoramic shots of the date palm oasis and once again ... repeat after me .... jump back in the car.

Okay, here we go .... Jebel Shams! Jebel Shams Arabic: Jebel Shams mountain of sun) is a mountain located in northeastern Oman north of Al Hamra town. It is the highest mountain of the country and part of Al Hajar Mountains range. It is a popular sightseeing area located 240 km from Muscat. In the summer, temperature is around 20 ° C and in the winter it drops just above 0 ° C. 3,075 meters (10,089 ft). From what we are told, Jebel Shams is the "Grand Canyon" of the Middle East. Yes, we are pumped.

Oh, and before I continue on ... btw, if you ever try and make it to the top of this mountain range ... one suggestion: do not attempt the climb in the aforementioned Mitsubishi Lancer. You will not make it. Our "car" had to be put in first gear to even achieve forward motion up the grade, and even then, I felt like giving it the ole "Fred Flintstone" and using my feet. Sad.

Thankfully, just as we were about to wave the white flag and turn around ... we run into a very friendly stranger who jumped out of his dusty truck to say hello. Before we knew it, he was showing us a map of where we were and where we wanted to go. He kept pointing at our car, and saying, "no make it." Yeah, tell us something we don't know.

Well, the next thing we know, this strange man we don't know named Mohammed is instantly transformed into MOHAMMED! our trusty guide and savior of the trip! We all enthusiastically hop into his 250,000 mile + Land Rover as the13 Omani real price we negotiated for our trip to the top sounds like a bargain.

Mohammed talks to us the whole way up ... up, down, left, right, back n'forth ... yes the road is a gravel and dirt rollercoaster ... and Mohammed is very pleased to tell us all about the history of this place. At least, I think that's what he was attempting. For the only two phrases any of us could make out were, "you understand?", And "no problem!"

So, yes, we understood; it was no problem.

I could literally go on and on about how outstanding this part of the trip was ... the drive up, getting out and walking to what felt like the edge of the world .... The views of the vast expanse of canyon for as far as one could see ... the cool wind whipping up off the bluff ... the instant smack of vertigo as you looked over the brink straight down. It was surreal.

While it is quite a cliché to say so, the pictures shown here (or the many more I have posted on Facebook) of course don't do any justice to the vistas, the feeling, and the overall experience. This probably sums it up best: like any worthwhile and incredible trip, as soon as you leave, you can't wait to go back.

But back we must go.


The ride back down is treacherous and exhilarating ... with some sketchy sections and precipitous grade changes. Before leaving we wander around for just a few more minutes - stealing time - watch Mohammed pray towards Mecca, and attempt to store this one deep in the memory banks. I even write a flattering yet sarcastic (is there any other method to my madness) testimonial in Mohammed's notebook / advertising pamphlet.


As we venture further west, the sun bleeds into the triangles of rock that just out of the road ahead. The journey has finished.

Oman Road Trip #2 Part Two

So, we awake and grab a quick breakfast on the rooftop of the Marina Hotel – the view is really great; check out the panoramic above. Next, we head across the street into the Fish Market. The smell is exactly what you expect, but the sights and sounds are something else. The market features over 30 different types of fish, all laid out for the discerning shopper to bargain and haggle over. It reminded me of the fishing docks/market in Malpais, Costa Rica, just a lot busier and more streamlined.

We exit the Fish Market and cross the street to duck behind the building facades facing the bay; behind them lay the Muttrah Souk. Yes, I said Muttrah, not Muscat; more on that in a bit. Anyways the souk has all the normal features of an Arabic souk; narrow lanes with overhead enclosures/shade structures, dozens upon dozens of shops featuring everything from incense, clothes, textiles, pashmina scarves, jewelry, gold, silver, spices, food, coffee to the most of kitsch ‘knick-knacks’ you can find.

I love the souks though; the smell of frankincense and sandalwood, the constant shouts and sales pitches of the overly eager workers, all the colors and amazing outfits being displayed. I even get fitted for a traditional Turkish cap and scarf. The kummar is an intricately embroidered cap that is put on first, and is sometimes covered by a muzzar; a square of finely woven woollen or cotton fabric, wrapped and folded into a turban.

We head out of the souk and decide to get on the road to the city of Muttrah. After driving around somewhat lost and checking and re-checking the map (which btw, the maps we have are not the greatest)… we finally realize…. We were in Muttrah the whole time. Yes, we though we were in Muscat, but didn’t realize we had left it the night before. Ooops!

So, here’s a little backstory/information about Muttrah (Arabic: مطرح‎) population 650,000, is a city located in the Muscat province of Oman. Before the discovery of oil, Muttrah was the center of commerce in Oman. It is still a center of commerce as one of largest sea ports of the region is located there. Other landmarks include Souq Muttrah, a traditional bazaar and Sour Al-Lawatiah, a small community of houses surrounded by an old wall.

Our next pit-stop is Qurum, although it’s a brief one. We find the nicest Starbucks you’ll ever see, situated between a large saltwater marsh and the ocean. I grab my goodies an go for a ‘walk’ in the Gulf of Oman (YES! Another body of water I can check off my list, lol).

Back in our car… a very crappy Mitsubishi Lancer rental, with what seems to be a 4 horsepower lawnmover motor… we begin our journey back across Oman heading west towards the abandoned village of Tanuf.

….to be continued… the journey is almost done...

Oman Road Trip #2 Part One

Alright, so our normal work week here starts on Sunday, goes through Friday, with Saturday being our one day off, and then we get right back to it. Yeah, not ideal for relaxing and exploring. But then again, that’s not what we’re here for; so no complaints!

However, on the weekend of October 23rd – 24th, we actually get a Friday off, and we all take advantage of it. Bruce, Rand and Nick head to Musandam, in northern Oman, to meet up with Bruce’s social group to go diving. Unfortunately, I don’t have any of my equipment with me, nor do I really have the money to go diving and buy all new stuff, so instead I join some of my new PGAV friends, John and Maurisz, on a 2 day road trip to eastern Oman.

Anyways we set out to cross the UAE-Oman border and this is a bit trickier than say crossing from the States to Canada or even Germany into France (although historically, that’s always been pretty easy, hehe). We get through what seems like 5 or 6 different checkpoints in a ¼ mile stretch and we’re on our way. I noticed Mariusz is noticeably shaken or just not quite right and he finally confides that he was really stressed out. Apparently growing up as a boy in Poland and even as a teenager and college student, whenever he crossed borders into the Soviet Union or other Eastern bloc countries… well it was always a stressful situation to say the least.

We finally make it across and our first stop is the historical capital of Oman in the 6th and 7th centuries AD: Nizwa. Nizwa is one of the oldest cities in Oman and it was once a center of trade, religion, education and art. Its Jama (grand mosque) was formerly a center for Islamic learning; it also possesses a number of other renowned mosques, such as Sultan Qaboos Jama.

Set amid a verdant spread of date palms, Nizwa is strategically located at the crossroads of routes linking the interior with Muscat and the lower reaches of Dhofar thus serving as the link for a large part of the country. Today, Nizwa is a diverse prosperous place with numerous agricultural, historical and recreational aspects; it is also a center for date growing and is the market place for the area.

We arrived in town around noon, albeit about 5 minutes late as literally every single shop, store, restaurant, and place of business closes down as practically every resident heads to the local mosque (pictured to the right) to pray. What a spectacle as hundreds upon hundreds of male Muslims converge on the Jama mosque, remove their shoes and completely canvas not only the interior of the mosque, but also the streets and steps surrounding it.

Our next stop is Muscat, (Arabic: مسقط, Masqaṭ) the capital and largest city of Oman. Instead of myself describing the city, I’ll leave it to someone more capable:
"Muscat is a large and very populous town, flanked on both sides with high mountains and the front is close to the water's edge; behind, towards the interior, there is a plain as large as the square of Lisbon, all covered with salt pans. There are orchards, gardens, and palm groves with wells for watering them by means of swipes and other engines. The harbor is small, shaped like a horse-shoe and sheltered from every wind."

This is how Afonso de Albuquerque described Muscat, after the fall of the city in 1507. Pretty accurate description even today though!

The city holds fast to its past, roots, and traditions, shunning Dubai’s rapid acceptance of all things large and modern. Most of the buildings adhere to the traditional Gulf-Arab style of architecture, are usually bleached white or sand color and surrounded by extremely clean streets. It also seems that every single shop, office and building has a picture of Sultan Qaboos hanging somewhere. And lastly, while I’m not sure how new they are, Muscat also features numerous waterfront parks and linear parks, making the edge of the city feel very green. Another striking architectural feature is that of the enormous incense burner monument above Riyam Park, which was built to celebrate Oman's National 20th Day (pictured to the left).

We continue on further south towards the Al Bustan Palace Hotel; a majestic octagonal piece or architecture that juts out of its own bay by the ocean backed by the mountains (see the accompnaying picture that I did not take). The exterior of the building does not really lend to the opulence found within. The crème de la crème of the hotel is its magnificent atrium, which is large enough to house a Boeing 747 on its end. The lofty atrium is clad in 800,000 tons (!) of Blue De France and White Dionysus marble imported from France, Greece, Italy, amongst others. It is truly spectacular, especially as the lighting and coloring changes from one perspective to another. The exterior pool decks, multiple infinity edge pools, fountains, sculpture, manicured lawns, and expanse of beach only add to the ambiance, experience and undoubtedly, some extravagant costs!

We leave the Al Bustan and turn around and head back north to Muscat to find a cheap hotel and crash for the night. We settle on the Marina hotel, grab a decent Indian dinner and retire. We plan on waking up early and exploring more of Muscat… there’s just one problem.

- To be continued….

Hatta Road Trip – Dune Bashing

My coworker/companion over here in the UAE, Nick Fairless, does a lot of Motocross riding back at home in Florida and has been riding bikes of one sort or another his whole life. Well, that makes two of us; although mine are not usually motorized.

Anyways, Nick is hell-bent on riding MotoX bikes while we’re here and since he’s not having any luck finding/reserving any, we instead take a short day trip on our one day off up to the red sand dunes of Hatta to rent ATV’s. Larry and his son Corey join us and we drive north along the Omani border and then bank west towards Abu Dhabi… our destination: the ‘city’ of Hatta, and more succinctly, the “Big Red”.

We drive cross county in our Toyota Prada (a 4x4 is definitely a necessity if you plan on going even a little off the road, as sand + hills = disaster otherwise) and pass through the "scrub" desert; sand interrupted with tufts of brown, hardy grass, Acacia trees and a few other hardy shrubs.

As we penetrate deeper into the desert, sand and nothing but begins to predominate and soon there are small dunes with even less grass and shrubs. Along this road, however, the dunes get really big and there is no vegetation at all. This is where we found "Big Red".

Big Red is just that; a 300 foot (oh sorry, a 30 meter) dune that posses a distinct red hue, particularly during the fading light of dusk; and actually, there’s like 4 or 5 slightly less big 'Red's' in a row. Beyond them unfurls miles and miles of wildly divergent dunes of all shapes, sizes, colors, and contours. Big Red is also a very popular dune for 4 wheeling and even sand boarding; particularly on the Muslim holy day of Friday. We were warned not to go on that day, cause there’s SUV’s and ATV’s flying in around in every direction… no worries; we work on the holy day : )

Anyways, we get there, rent our ATV’s, take them out on the “test” track (smaller dunes), then head over to the biggies. I must say, I was a little disappointed in our machines. The ATV’s we had in Costa Rica were Honda manual 450’s. Here, we have much weaker auto 330’s. But, you know what, we still had a blast. However, this was some deep, soft sand, so it you didn’t stick to the high ground, drive at a constant high speed, or really know what you’re doing, you would get buried in the sand sooo quick. Yes, it happened to me.. twice… argh.

If you actually were able to navigate your way to the top – no easy task from the back side – you were treated to a pretty spectacular view. Even better was watching the Land Rovers, Jeeps and even GMC pickups fly up the dune full speed. The best though was watching them get stuck at some seriously precarious angles and watch them carefully work themselves out of getting stuck without flipping back over down the hill.

The highlight/lowlight of our trip comes thanks to Larry’s son Corey, the reckless teenager. I’ll explain: for like 15-20 minutes, we couldn’t find him, which is not a good thing in a desert; and our alotted time was more than up. So, I say, “hey, let’s all head back to the top of Big Red and we should be able to see him from there.” if you look closely at the picture of the lone ATV at the top of the hill, you just might be able to make out a white object over the rear right fender... well, that's a full size Land Rover getting ready to make another ascent. Now, picture us trying to find a single small ATV in the distance.

Well, after we make it up and scan all around, all of a sudden Nick says, “hey, who’s that dude with a white turban on his head walking through the desert?” Yep, Corey. With his t-shirt on his head.

Apparently he took off on his own, didn’t pay attention to where he was going, drove way too crazy and flipped his ATV, then could not get it re-started. So, he walked out of the desert. Then – and you can’t make this up – couldn’t remember where he walked from. Soooo, we searched for his ATV for another half hour. And could not find it.

Finally, some of the staff came out on ATV’s to come find us. They then took Corey out on a dune buggy looking for it. Larry was sweating bullets thinking he was going to have to buy an ATV and leave with nothing. Finally they found it, all was well, and we headed home. Great trip.

Oman Road Trip #1

Okay, I’ll admit it. Before I arrived here, I knew squat about Oman… nada. I knew it was somewhere in the Middle East, but if I looked at a map, I would be just as likely to point at Jordan, or Yemen. It’s sad when the only countries we Americans (most of us anyways) can identify on a map are the ones in which we have wars in.

On that note, I get asked often by friends and family, “are you scared? Is it safe?” Well, when you’re in UAE and Oman, the answer in my opinion is yes, it’s very safe. There is little to no crime (the punishments for doing so are very severe) where we live and travel, the people are nice, and there is scant hint of terrorism. However, when you do look at a regional map and realize where the UAE sits – smack dab in the middle of all the countries from which we hear so much frightening news, its easy to understand everyone’s concern.

But, I digress. Oman is apparently quite the diverse nation with desert flats, huge mountain ranges, and a beautiful coast line that wraps around 2/3rd of the country. And just like the USA, it has a northern part that is disconnected from the mainland.

Our first sojourn into Oman occurs courtesy of Bruce Ora's Nature Conservancy group. We take a day trip into Oman to walk through and explore the Mussafah Wadi. Wadi (Arabic: وادي‎ wādī; also: Vadi) is the Arabic term traditionally referring to a valley; in some cases it may refer to a dry riverbed that contains water only during times of heavy rain or simply an intermittent stream.

Thankfully there is no rain today, because I’m not in the mood to get washed out or cling to some tree branch for a couple hours. Instead we trek down into, around, and up and over the wadi and continue on towards a large date palm oasis, and eventually arrive at a wadi pool. We are encouraged by some Italian guy to jump on in and he proceeds to (I kid you not) rip off his pants like some break-away basketball warm-ups, only to reveal his mini Speedo and dives in. “Who’s coming with me?!?”

I submit to the power of the silverback Italian and his black Chiquita banana holder and follow. The water is amazing, cool and clear. 4 or 5 more people join (thankfully) and we all dry off. Just then, we are greeted by a really cool group of native Omani teenage boys, who are very excited to talk to some tourists, take some pictures with us… and even offer us some medwat, which is a local, herbal, strong tobacco which they all seem to love. I acquiesce and realize why they like it so much; as it nearly knocks me off my feet. STRONG stuff!

Most of the group are big plant nerds, so I fit right in on that one…. Imagine a bunch of people walking around, only to look down and proclaim:

Ohh… cool, its Euphorbia larica!” –pictured to the left.

Or, “hey everyone, come check out this Calotropis procera!” –pictured to the right.

Yes, I'm one of those people that come over to look and take pics.

Yep...... uber dorky.

Life Around the Villas

The villas we inhabit that I’ve previously spoken about are located almost directly across from the existing zoo. Every night or every other night, after work is done, I like to go for a 2-4 mile run to stay in shape (man, I actually really miss LA Fitness) as well as get a feel for the neighborhood. The area is pretty decent, the weather has been really cool at night, but here’s what I’ve really noticed…

Cultural Observation #1

I’ve decided to make a point of waving, smiling and saying hello to literally every person I pass on the road, sidewalks, wherever. Call it making a good impression, waving the friendly flag for Americans, or just to avoid having everyone stare at me. Well… most people I pass, whether they are Pakistani, Afghani, Indian, Omani or Emirati… smile and wave back. However, there are still a great deal of people who stare at me, or just don’t know what to make of me, and my silly greetings.

What I’ve realized is this is kind of the reverse scenario of what happened to me when I moved to Minnesota many years ago. I, having spent my formative years in the very ‘friendly’ confines of New Jersey and New York, had grown quite accustomed to minding my own, and not really greeting anyone, or dare even locking eyes with them. Then, I moved to the land of Paul Bunyan, and in the first few weeks, I kept thinking, “who was that and why did they say hello…… why did he/she just wave at me…. why are they smiling and looking at me?” I was completely unaware of ‘Minnesota Nice’.

So, I guess pretty much the opposite is what is happening to me now.

Other amusing observations…. I sooo wish I had a camera for this one. I passed by a large house/complex the other night, and I could have swore I hear kids laughing and what sounded like a bunch of dune buggies or go-karts… well, lo and behold I stuck my head through the partially opened gate, and what had to be 10-12 kids, were having a miniature ATV race around a HUGE driveway. The fathers were rooting on their kids as they were flying around the makeshift oval track… it was hysterical.

And here’s one last mixed architectural appreciation/cultural observation: on my runs through different areas, I’ve noticed there is literally a mosque every 2-3 blocks in nearly every neighborhood - some small, some decent size, some enormous; those are Juma Mosques, that can handle heavy traffic on Fridays. I’m not sure who is responsible for building all these mosques… the municipality, the developer, the city… but, they really are everywhere. And they are beautiful. Some of them are just plain stunning. So, I’ve stared collecting an image library of every new one I see.

But here’s the sad part… when the local people are going to and from the mosque, a great deal of them are not walking there. We’re talking a maximum of 3-4 blocks, or most likely a 1-5 minute walk. The vast majority of people I have seen are driving (in an SUV of course) by themselves to the mosque… and when you think about the fact that they are supposed to pray 5 times a day… wow. I’m afraid the Americanization of automobile dependency has permeated the Emirate culture, and that’s probably not a good thing.

Day Three in Al Ain

We were supposed to get up early and take ATV’s across the border into Oman (where you have to get your passport stamped once a month), but we can’t locate the rental place and Larry doesn’t have the right documentation to get into Oman. So, instead, we all decide for our one day off to head over to the Hilton pool deck…. But alas, jetlag finally sets in and Nick and I crash for half the day.

Well, jetlag, and a combination of being woken up every night/morning at 4am to the (very) nearby mosque, with its vertical minarets and their multiple speakers blaring Muslin singing/chanting/warbling. Yeah, that’s fun. I had been warned several times by Andrew Schmidt how much fun this was going to be, and yes, I’m a believer.

We finally get up and get moving…. and walk over to the Al Ain Zoo. The existing zoo is about 40 years old and contains a large contingency of desert/savannah/jungle animals… giraffes, zebras, gazelles, ibexes, lions, tigers, and more monkeys than I’ve ever seen.

One particular highlight is the Birds of Prey show; where eagles,

hawks, falcons, and owls literally swoop right over your head from one trainer to the next. I even got to volunteer to catch a vulture…. strong little grip on that sucker.

There are 6 of us out here right now, myself, Nick Fairless, Rand Gentry, Larry Hughes and his son Corey, and lastly, Bruce Ora. Bruce also has 2 of his friends visiting from Florida (they were on a Celebrity cruise through Italy and Greece). Bruce loves to cook up these huge gourmet meals (with some excellent presentation… I feel like a judge on Top Chef).

We are treated to Bruce’s girlfriend Sarah’s eggplant appetizer that I can’t even describe, plus Bruce’s own red beef curry and green chicken curry. Fresh mango slices mixed with mango sherbet arrives for desert…. and bottle after bottle of red and white comes your way; which of course is right up my alley. We even have shots of a French liqueur aptly named Framboise that comes served with a raspberry at the bottom of the shot glass. I slam mine back only to look up and see everyone sipping theirs… a couple seconds later I realize why… yeooow! Good night.

Felt just like when I was studying abroad in Paris and Ken Ray and I slammed back our uber-expensive French liqueur only to hear our professor Terry Schnadelbach scream, “Nooooo! You’re supposed to sip it!”

Some things just don't ever change!